Vegetarian Today: Finding comfort in potatoes

I’ve been traveling and have just returned from the airport starving. I open the re-frigerator and feel saddened by the empty shelves.

Since my kids left for school, I don’t stock my pantry, especially because I am dieting. If I have anything appealing at hand, I will eat it.

I have a tremendous collection of condiments, however, and I peruse the produce bin to see what I can put together a la minute. During a weak moment, I consider ordering pizza.

Then I remember I am dieting, and I can make something better for myself if I creatively use what is in my kitchen.

I have a 5-pound bag of Yukon gold potatoes and produce odds and ends. Although ex-hausted, I’m even more tired of eating out and being served by someone. I begin to feel fond of those potatoes. They are a gift.

After all, cultures survived on them, wars were fought over them, and through the whole low-carb trend, potatoes have proven to be our friends.

Originally there were three main classes of potatoes in stores: white round, russet and red. Now, of course, many species have been produced and crossbred.

You’ll find yellow, purple, blue, red and even black potatoes. There also are a variety of shapes from small and round to long and thin.

Potatoes are one of the most important ingredients in the world. The Food and Drug administration has documented almost 400 million tons of potatoes are produced each year.

I started thinking about how many ways I’ve eaten them. They can be boiled, baked, fried and mashed. Potatoes can be turned into fries, chips and stuffing.

Whole, they can be filled with hundreds of ingredients. Tonight I make roesti potatoes or a large potato pancake. I need comfort food this evening, and I don’t mind spending a few minutes with a hand grater.

I first learned how to make these simple cakes at the Culinary Institute of America where I went to school. I have continued to make them through the years, always adding other ingredients to the classic recipe from a Swiss chef in New York City.

Yukon Gold potatoes work great for this recipe because they are waxy and hold together well. You can use all-purpose potatoes, but Yukons have a sweeter, richer flavor and beautiful golden color.

You can use a food processor fitted with a grating blade to shred the potatoes or a hand grater. Some cooks use cooked, peeled potatoes, but I use raw and leave the thin skins on before grating.

I make mine with some onions, but if you are creative, any vegetable that can be grated will make a tasty addition. After I make my roesti potatoes, I chop and saute all the vegetables that are left in my crisper to top off the pancake.

It’s a killer combination pairing the crunchy colorful sauteed vegetables with the soft and comforting yet crispy pancakes.

Roesti Potato Pancakes

Chef Steve’s tip: These can be served alone or as a bed for sauteed vegetables, chopped tofu or tempeh. You can add grated zucchini, carrots, yellow squash or turnips to the potatoes as well. If you have leftover cooked potatoes, you can use them to make the pancakes.

1 pound raw Yukon gold potatoes, skin on, grated

1/2 medium Spanish onion, grated

1/4 cup rough-chopped parsley

Salt and fresh-ground black pepper, to taste

Olive oil for spraying the pan

Combine the potatoes, onions, parsley, salt and pepper in a colander. Press out any ex-cess moisture.

Heat a 9-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Spray skillet with olive oil. Divide the potato mixture into three portions and add one portion to the pan.

Press the potatoes down into the pan until a 9-inch flat pancake forms. Reduce heat to medium and cook 4 to 5 minutes until golden brown.

Turn pancake with a spatula. Cook the other side until golden brown. Remove from pan and keep warm. Repeat until all potato mixture is cooked. Makes 3 potato pancakes.